Texas-Inspired Chili

No beans. No tomatoes. No arguing about it. This is Texas chili — big cubes of beef chuck slow-cooked in a sauce built from dried chilies until everything is dark, rich and slightly smoky. It takes time but almost none of it is actual work. Make it the day before if you can — it's always better the next day.

Heads up: This recipe uses dried chilies — Guajillo, New Mexico, and Ancho. Find them in any good supermarket in the world foods aisle, or online. They're not interchangeable with chili powder. Don't skip them, they're the whole point.

What you need

• 3½ to 4 pounds (1.5–1.8kg) beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 large onions, chopped
• 6 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 large fresh poblano pepper, seeds removed, chopped
• 3 dried Guajillo chilies, stems and seeds removed
• 3 dried New Mexico (or California) chilies, stems and seeds removed
• 3 dried Ancho chilies, stems and seeds removed
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• ½ teaspoon ground allspice
• One 3-inch cinnamon stick
• 6 cups beef, chicken, or vegetable stock
• 1 tablespoon masa harina (or 1–2 small corn tortillas torn into small pieces)
• Salt and black pepper

How to make it

1. Toast and rehydrate the dried chilies Tear the dried chilies open and shake out the seeds. In a dry hot pan (no oil), press them flat for about 30 seconds each side until they darken slightly and smell toasty. Put them in a bowl, pour over just enough boiling water to cover, and leave for 20 minutes until soft. Drain, then blend into a smooth paste with a splash of the soaking water. Set aside.

What is masa harina? It's dried corn flour — the same stuff tortillas are made from. It thickens the chili and adds a subtle corn flavour. If you can't find it, tear up a couple of corn tortillas instead.

2. Brown the beef Pat the beef cubes dry with kitchen paper. Season generously with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over high heat. Brown the beef in batches — don't crowd the pan. Get a good dark crust on at least two sides of each piece. Set the browned beef aside.

3. Build the base Turn the heat to medium. In the same pot, cook the onions until soft and golden, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and poblano pepper, cook for another 2 minutes. Add the cumin, allspice, and cinnamon stick. Stir for 30 seconds until fragrant.

4. Bring it all together Return the beef to the pot. Add the chili paste and pour over the stock. Bring to a gentle boil, then immediately turn the heat right down to a low simmer. Put a lid on, slightly ajar, and leave it alone for 2 to 2½ hours.

5. Finish it Fish out the cinnamon stick. Stir in the masa harina and simmer uncovered for another 15 minutes until the sauce thickens and goes glossy. Taste and adjust the salt.

Serve with

Warm flour tortillas, rice, or just bread. Sour cream and pickled jalapeños on the side.

Good to know

• Significantly better the next day
• Freezes brilliantly
• The dried chilies are everything — Guajillo is fruity, Ancho is earthy, New Mexico adds warmth